Darjeeling May 3rdDear Abby.
That was a good letter with the little fliers and I shared it with A. Van Doren in spite of the fact that she had just introduced me as from Wellesley. I am glad that the Opposition has quieted; it may do some good - certainly the Trustees needed a jolt - but I do wish they, the Opposition, had shown better taste and a nicer spirit. What will next year be like? I am not looking forward to it, but I shall be glad to see my dear Abby again.
I am sending the latest number of the I.I. [India Inklings] to Lenette and I asked her to pass it on to you, if you want to hear of the trip north. My Corona will not make as many copies as in days of yore. My Corona is now in Kalimpong to be picked up along with my fern cultures when I return from the Sikkim trek.
Thursday, Miss Beard, A. Van Doren and I went to Kalimpong in a Baby Ford - a 3 hour trip. We went by Ghum (7300 ft) then down to the Teeste [sic] River 870 ft and then up to Kalimpong (4000 ft). On this side of the river much of the descent was on a narrow shelf-like road which curved in a dizzying fashion; only baby cars can taverse this road. We went to see the St. Andrew's Homes which were started as a sideissue 35 years ago by a Scotch missionary to take care of Anglo-Indian waifs - by-products of the Tea estates. Dr. Graham not only took care of the waifs but influenced the management of the Tea Estates so that the crop of waifs is much redered [?] and now they supplement the diminished supply from Calcutta. We also visited the Schools for Girls of the Scotch Mission and saw an interesting type of "cottage system" where the girls manage all their own domestic affairs in groups of five - a "Family" composed of girls of different ages, races (Indian, Nepali, Tiketan, and Sikkimese are available), and religions (Christian, Hindu or Buddhist[)].
This is a Buddhist region and there are many evidences of it - prayers hanging everywhere - long prayers on tall poles - and short prayers: handkerchief like prayers.
Miss Beard and I aspired to see Mt. Everest but we have given it up, and are consoling ourselves with Kanchenjuga which is almost as high and much more formidable, also a much better show than Everest (sour grapes).
We went to Tiger Hill Saturday, [...]ing at 2:30, taking a car at 3 (after a cup of tea from a thermos), riding about an hour & then climbing 20-25 minutes. We were so heavily hooded with warm clothes that our pace was slow climbing to 8500 ft. We saw nothing except haze and a pale rosy sun, not even one spot of the snow peaks. We had tried Wednesday morning, the finest morning in the last two weeks, and were ready at 3 but the car did not come, so about 4 we came dismally back and went to bed. We have a 3-4 minutes walk to the motor road and we had walked up and down it hoping to find the car hidden under a bush. We have had some fine views of Kanchenjuga from our own verandah and several times have risen at 5:15 or 5:30 to see the sums. Once I made a sketch between 5:30 & 6:30 A.M. Do you think you will know me when I return? Doesn't this early rising sound a bit strange.
I consoled myself on Tiger Hill by thinking of Adam's Peak. We saw long strips of prayers draped over the trees below the summit but there were no other signs of holiness and we did not have to remove our shoes. When we reached the summit there was a crowd of girls singing. I thought at first they were Americans but when I heard "Swanee River" at double quick time, I knew better. Then the accent at intonation was not right. They turned out to be Anglo-Indian girls from a near-by school. They sang much the same kind of twaddle that American girls would have sung even to "John Brown's baby has a cold upon his chest." I prefer pilgrims singing pilgrim songs, and priests chanting prayers as on Adam's Peak. It is about as cold on Tiger Hill May 1st as on Adam's Peak Jan. 1st but we were better provided with warm clothes this time and we did not have to wait so long for the sunrise.
We leave here tomorrow afternoon on our trek - the first stage a 6-mile walk to Badamtam, down hill 4000 ft. We had our last session with Mr. Kyckel today. He is buying our stones and [...]ding our coolies, just as if we were an Everest or a Kanchenjuga expedition. We are each to have a woman coolie to carry our bedding and clothes; three men coolies for food and Miss Beard's cot bed (there are only 4 beds in the Dak bungalows), one cook, who will be tiffin [?] coolie also, and an extra coolie for odds and ends, also a pony man and two ponies. My coolie is Diki. We saw them today and drew lots for them. We have just had a thunderstorm with hail and it is chilly. It will be warmer in Badamtam. Wednesday we shall have a warm climb to Namschi [sic] (5200 ft.). We hope to have a trip to the Tibet border but it remains to be seen how one [...] the high altitudes.
I shall not arrive a minute before I have to. The "Silverwillow" (Silver-Java Line[)] - is due in Los Angeles Sept. 16 which will give me a rush to get to S. H. in time for college, but I can't pass up such a good bargain, $280 from Calcutta to Java, and from Java straight to Los Angeles on a freight boat, 8 weeks of water. It avoids the trans-shipping in Singapore and Hongkong and gives me 2 months in Java. I take the "Silverbelle" from Calcutta to Java (Batavia) and the "Silverwillow" from Batavia to Los Angeles. I shall pine for letters as I do not expect to see anyone I know after I leave my trek companions in Gangtok May 20th until I reach America, except for Miss MacIntosh whom I met last week in Kalimpong and perhaps Mr. & Mrs Daires (Do you remember the animated Indian lady?) and Emily Gente (Miss Daires sister) in Singapore[.] All the people I knew in Buitenzorg have left. The Director, whose name I could not decipher, wrote a very cordial letter and says I can get bard [?] for 70 f. +/- a month. That will be almost $40 if I am right on the exchange. I was afraid it might be much more.
I meant to write to Fredda Friday but it is 8:30 and since I came to Darjeeling my bed time is 9. I'll write to her next week on the trek.
With much love,
Almac/o The Director
's'Lands Ptantentuin
(Botanical Garden)
Buitenzorg, Java. N. El.June 10 - Aug 10.
Manila, Philippine Is. about Aug 25.
"Silverwillow", Silver Java Line.
Los Angeles. Sept 16 (or 17).