The signs of war - so unbelievable in this peaceful country - are evident - barbed wire remnants, outposts in the rock cliffs, ruined buildings and many war cemeteries! And in spite of that - we hear the war prophets "Another war in twenty years!" The Germans and Austrians we have talked to (in deaf and dumb language and ten German words) say nothing of war, the English and Italians speak frankly of it. It's difficult - it seems impossible to get the truth of either side.
What a heavy letter this has turned into? "Right-about-face!" Italy has been interesting - the full two months we had in sightseeing it We did all the usual things - and occasionally an unusual one. Travelling with sweet Mis McCallum our school principal accounted for the first, and being us - the last. In Naples we were thrilled with the exquisite seal life in the aquarium (my first [surprised face doodle]!) wandered among Pompeian ruins - spent a colorful day with a trip to Sorrento and Capri. We were swallowed up in Rome, and went dizzily about vainly attempting to see it all in ten days. We saw the mediaeval pageantry of a papal procession in Saint Peter's (the ever present movie man grinding away behind the high altar) the Colosseum - such a lovely ruin - by moonlight, and a newly found Venus of Cyrene who (which?) is taking away the honors formerly heaped at the feet of Mitos' Aphrodite. It is an exquisite thing - this marble in the National Museum. We were most grateful in Rome for fountains, dozens of them - with running water! Beatrice Eckberg, 1921, met us there - and our tongues waggled fore and aft - she had just come from a semester's study of French at the Sorbonne.
From Rome we trailed on to Florence, stopping at the home of St. Francis Assissi - and Perugia. Every inch of that country is cultivated and cultivated beautifully - and from the heighths [sic] of Assissi one sees miles of gardenland.
Florence - I love. It has a reserve and depth that no other place gave, as well as a powerful fascination to the casual passerby. If one is wearied of pictures - there is odd silver to buy - or of churches - linen and cheap hats. Said one American tourist "When we got to Florence, I simply told our guide that I wanted to shop - he needn't try to take us to any galleries or monasteries." There are hundreds - thousands of such pathetic figures abroad. The guides abuse them, play on their gullibility. In front of the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence are two statues - one a copy of Michaelangelo's David, the other a Hercules. "And this" quoth a guide to a weary, open mouthed group, "on the left is Michaelangelo's 'David Slaying Goliath,' while on the right the remarkable statue of 'Goliath Slaying David'."
We had a day among the mosaics of Ravenna, then on to Ravenna Venice - by baggage car - the overcrowded third class compartment giving us niether air nor comfort, and an empty car ahead giving us just what we wanted - freshness and view.
And thus we entered Venice!
Of course Venice was all that it should be - and more, on a moonlight [sic] night with a gondola and music to complete the setting. It was a hare-and-hounds through the Ducal Palace - we were the hare, hordes of American and German tourists the hounds. St. Mark's was a three ring circus - not once in eight days was it quiet.
After that we scraped up enough energy for Padua and Milan - and then simply raced for the mountains. We've stayed five weeks instead of three - and are not even beginning to tire of them. Larry has had a campaign against a regiment of flu-bugs - after waiting a whole lifetime to do mountain climbing. Ironical - but she's been a good sport and a good patient! Now we're engaged in adding pounds to Helen and keeping them off Charlotte! [winking smiley face doodle]
On Monday we go back to Venice, on Wednesday sail for Piraeus - and our second and last year. The first has been valuable - hard at times it is true - and we have the advantage this year of being "adapted." But I'm eager to get back to America and a job. What that job will be I don't know - that is one thing I wanted to bother you with [winking smiley face doodle], because I know you hear of open positions - and mayhap there will be one open for me by next September or October. I am writing to the Dean's office and to the New York and Philadelphia equivalents of the Boston "Women's Educational and Industrial Union." I have eliminated a few things in the last three years - the first that I do not want to do High School teaching - and another - college assistant work. I want to "learn a trade" - if you understand what I mean - to be where I can get some technical knowledge and at the same time not have the routine of a steel analyst, for example. The physiological side still appeals -. What I really should like to try would be laboratory work in connection with a hospital, medical school or research laboratory - perhaps in time be able to travel along with some scientific expedition. I mean to pick up some bacteriology - whatever I do, too.
As to place - if any preference, it would be New York or Philadelphia, but I should certainly consider others.
Distance and the time it takes for communication with the States means that I have to start early[.] If you should hear of anything into which I might, from your knowledge of me - fit, I shall be grateful if you would let me know, either directly or through the Dean's office.
Enough of me -
What sort of new and exciting things did you find in last year's work? I should like to be back in Advanced Physiology this year - and with both ears open - perhaps my mind more open. You must be eager to start in this fall's work.
A good year to you, and my best-o'-luck wishes to Betsy Crofts and Miriam Faith!
Did I tell you that we went through Dr. Wallace's laboratories in Constantinople College last spring? I had a homesick pang - my connection with her was always through the Temporary Science building - and its "big bosses."
Larry asks me to send her love and good wishes, and to them I add my own.