Jena, July 9, 1928Dear Jessee: -
I want to write you while the music we heard in Berlin is still in my ears. You would have loved it. We saw the first day we walked around that the opera was still on, but closing last week, some got tickets immediately and were lucky enough to get good ones. We saw an opera by J. Strauss of which I never heard - "Robber Baron" would be a translation. It was tuneful like Blue Danube all the way through, and funny like Gilbert & Sullivan, with a wonderful comedian, evidently very much liked.
We went early to the State Opera House, such a gorgeous place, with a huge stage. It's the Berlin Opera House where so many famous operas have appeared - not as large as the Metropolitan but much finer. A huge stage, and with such satisfactory scenery and lighting - I never saw such a good sunset! It faded so naturally! The place was full - no empty seats that I saw except two or three boxes. Everybody puts coats in the coat-room, a hook numbered to match your seat. And they get them out so fast at the end. You know how there is one longer pause between acts when they all go to the foyer and eat? Even in this short opera they did it - a huge room, with people walking and eating and drinking. It might be very brilliant at the height of the season. The orchestra could scarcely have been better, and the acting and singing were as good. The chorus was big and sang better than any U.S.A. opera chorus I ever heard. Altogether we had a gorgeous time!
Then last night we went to the last performance before the holidays of another state opera, but at popular prices. It just was not in the class with the other, but 'twas very good all the same. All the [...]
Dresden, 1911
You see I went to sleep! I was writing in bed anyhow. I'll just keep on from that place. - The popular-price opera meant a very good seat for $1.75 and we heard Freischutz, very well sung. The orchestra seemed as good as the other opera-house, acting and singing and general stage setting not quite as good, but far better than any "English-opera" or other second grade in America. The audience was distinctly less well-to-do - many of them brought their own sandwiches which they ate with beer bought in the foyer at the "Longer Pause," where the place just empties out. The opera house is a new one, and the orchestra section has no aisles! There are many doors along the sides and then you just crawl over folks! We were fairly late, seats in the exact middle and we passed over 20 seats, perhaps 2/3 of them occupied - yet the place emptied very fast because about every two rows had an exit to the big corridor.
We certainly enjoyed the music - Weber, you know. I do hope your opera books tell about these, for I don't know either and while we could get the general hang of it, we missed much!
Then we went to a band concert in the Zoo. Garden where some 14,000 can sit at tables and hear the music - There were a few thousands [sic] around, I suppose! We had a reasonably good dinner while a superior band played. Then we went into a concert hall and heard a Symphony Concert, again sitting at tables. We bought lemonade only. The general admission (to the Garden, 2 concerts - and all the animals, &c. &c.) was only a mark (=.24). You are expected to buy something, but both the women at our table brought their own sandwiches. We conclude that there still is good cheap music in Germany! The program was about like our Pops - not the most serious, but fine all the same.
I'm asking Miss Smith to send on to you the letters I write her, because I'll not have time to write twice, and many of the things will be the same for you both. She's going to give back the letters, so I'm putting in more than either of you may care to hear about the scientific people we happen to connect with.
It was a disappointment not to find any good church music in either Copenhagen or Berlin - we heard so much in England. But there is a famous Roman Catholic choir here - only we aren't here for Sunday.
I wonder what you hear from Emma, and how your house looks, and whether you are at Mittie's. Do give my lov to them all if you are there. Maybe I'll have a letter from you pretty soon. It takes quite a while to get mail. Miss Smith's last letter was still in June.
Anyhow - I hope you're well, and that your feet are better all the time. Lots of love, Jessee dear -
Abby -
Our itinerary is holding well so far.