Honey dear :-
We're liking Wells so much that we are staying an extra day, the same to be subtracted from Liverpool. By your old schedule you go to your sister's today, but of course I've been sending letters there for some time. I hope you'll tell me when you plan to return, for I don't know that. And I hope your next letter from South Hadley will say that your cold is better. I'm sorry the garden doesn't look attractive to you, for I did try hard to have some things which would be in blossom when you came. Haven't the little zinnias done well? They were exquisite last year. And weren't there any gladioli? I put in a good many. While some of the earlier things winter-killed, notably fox-gloves & canterbury bells, but I thought the later things promised better. The seedlings were in excellent shape when I left; but of course I don't know what either the climate may have done or Mr. Kinney's man failed to do. But I'm sorry it didn't give you a pretty welcome. I've sent to have one English seed catalogue meet me at Liverpool, for there are a few things I want to try to get, though the things that are so lovely here are not likely to do the same things in our drier, colder climate. It has rained, as far as I can recall, some in all but two days since we've been in England.
I forget whether I finished my letter on Sunday before or after we went to the very beautiful and likewise imposing ruins of Okehampton Castle. the keep is very high, and the ruins of the old chapel, hall, kitchens & castle hearth were fine. They're very much ruins, ivy and fern grown, in a park of big trees, with the little river on one side, but they're interesting and lovely. We took some pictures in brief flashes of sunlight, but even so the light was poor.
Monday was almost a fine day, though it rained in the early morning and a little bit later on. 'Twas "bank holiday", which means all but the Fourth of July. We started soon after breakfast, about eleven - breakfast was at nine - and went up by the artillery camp, where the firing was suspended. It's a steep climb, but a beautiful view, for 3 tors lie in fine grouping over the camp, Rough, West Mill and Yes. We took a road by a sweet brook and then up West Mill. Many folks were picking "whorts" (= whortleberries) the best the country provides in the blueberry line, very low, one at a time, very high in staining power, less sweet than blueberries, but better than huckleberries. Many folks were picking them. The English appreciate their country - there were picnics everywhere, (with tea) and we weren't at all in a tourist belt. We loved West Mill Tor, and ate a very frugal lunch there, and while so doing the mist came out of nowhere, over miles of territory, for the whole moor was spread out before us. We were up 1700 feet. After a time we went to look at some stones, which were either an old stone avenue, or else a new artillery thing, and lo, the mist left! So we went on in glorious weather to Yes Tor - 2000 + feet high, almost the highest. The rocks are so queer, so weather worn, so castellated, and giving such interesting outlines to the tops of the moors. The view from Yes Tor was very wide - you see there isn't a tree anywhere. I forget whether you've ever been there or not. We went back a nearer way, in time for dinner, and took in a most entertaining cross-country race at the camp, a holiday diversion. The horses were fine, so many of them dashing about. We were so glad to get one walk for miles over the moor, and not to get drenched! 'Twas 10 miles or so, I think.
Tuesday we started early and on a very slow train, to make leisurely changes for Glastonbury and Wells. We had about 2 1/2 hours at Glastonbury, but had to subtract some for rain, though fortunately we had reached the Abbey, so we could look at it from under a shed. The place is wonderfully lovely, albeit very thoroughly ruined. Some of the old ivy-covered arches are most picturesque, and architecturally its mingling of Norman and early Gothic is fascinating. The Abbot's kitchen was great - a vaulted room - very high, with a cupola on top for ventilation, and four huge fireplaces.
We came to Wells about 5 o'clock, but just couldn't plan to leave today after once seeing how exquisite the cathedral is! Also there was no music today, and Prof. Macdougall says it's one of the best choirs in England - so we telegraphed our next places this morning, and stay[ed] over! We're in the Vicar's Close, a fascinating little double row of little houses behind an old gate, oh, very charming. The guest book is full of names we know, including M. Ball this spring. The little ladies chatter to us and feed us mighty good things, even lobster, at moderate cost. I'd like to stay a week! This morning we went up the big tower, though the triforium is forbidden, and found the view lovely, in spite of a little rain! The bishop's palace has a moat with a drawbridge & swans, and lovely buildings, clearly visible from above, but not otherwise. The cathedral is exquisite - about the loveliest thing I've ever seen, without and within, with so many interesting bits. There's the 14th cent. clock with little horesmen [sic] that race around every hour, and figures striking the quarters both inside & outside the transept. And the chapter house is a delight, that and the "chain bridge" the the Close reached by a most beautiful staircase. The lightness and grace of the retro-choir and lady-chapel are things to dream about, and a "golden window" ranks with the loveliest glass we've seen.
This afternoon we've been to Cheddar, where I didn't know there is a Gorge - and caves - as well as cheese! But the caves have wonderful stalactites and stalagmites which same I've never seen before. We went in more than a quarter of a mile the guide said, easy going, electrified - but no harm has been done to the formations which are beautifully colored as well as formed. The rocks of the Gorge are 300+ feet high, nothing to you, but very high to me. The ivy decoration was most pleasing, though we found only one new fern.
Chester tomorrow night, and the cathedral doesn't touch this one!
Much love to you, honey, and greetings to your family if you're with them.
