[Some paragraph breaks added for ease of reading.]Bibby Line
Estd. 1821S. S. Lancashire
Tuesday, Oct 29, 1929.
Abby dear:-
The days are so alike, that I hesitated before writing Tuesday. Much has happened since I wrote last. I will proceed to tell you. We got into Marseilles so early that I missed the view of the harbor, but we got it, in a most active mood, going out. Mr. Shaw & Mrs. Shaw, who sit across from me at table, invited Miss Clark, Miss Butcher and myself to join them in a trip around the city and for a drive along the shore[.] The weather was unsettled. Drops fell on us from time to time, but we did not care. We started about 9.30 in a big Cook bus, with a guide, and got back at 5.30. We did the twon first. It is beautifully set against a semi circle of limestone cliffs, making a fine grey and black affect. We saw lovely gardens, things in fine flower, the new cathedral, Byzantine in style, largest in France, made from black and white stone, in horizontal stripes, quite ugly, I thought.
Then we went up a funny cog railroad, inclined about 60°, to Notre Dame, perched on the very top of a cliff on one side of the town. The central tower is adorned with a great, gilded statue of the Virgin, which must serve as a landmark for sailors. The little church inside has beautiful mosaics in the dome and models of little ships hanging about every where. From this high spot we got a good view of the little island on which is located Chateau D'If whose dungeon is mentioned, I believe, in Monte Cristo.
The drive to Bandol, about 60 kilometers in the direction of Nice, was a joy, every inch of it. We went down by the island road, back by the shore, up & over hills, through ravines, the road led us, past terraced hills with many olive trees, along by groves of pine trees, used for their rosin to the profit of the country side. The pine covered hill sides were made glorious with the pinkest heather I ever saw, lots of it. But the vineyards - vines about two or three ft. high - were perfectly gorgeous in color, deep reds, crimsons, yellows. Between the rows was growing something that looked like buckwheat, with white blossoms that made a snowy background for the glory of the vines. Add to that, the burnt orange of the soil & of the cliffs behind and you have a Persian carpet, indeed.
About 1.30 we reached Bandol, on a lovely piece of shore, the hotel with a fascinating garden between it & the sea, with palms, eucalyptus, oleanders, cosmos, chrysanthemums, marigolds, &c, filling it. We had a very good lunch and drove back a-long a road that gave beautiful views of the sea, that took us through little villages with streets so narrow that the big bus almost touched the walls of the houses. You remember the drive to Amalfi? It was like that but perhaps more interesting because of he greater variety of scenery. Was that not a fine day? I don't know how much it cost, yet, but Mr. Shaw thought not over a pound.
We left Marseilles at noon and went into the most frisky sea that I ever experienced. Even the officers acknowledged it to be unusual. Of course Miss Clark and I retired to our berths, I mostly because I was afraid of breaking my bones if I attempted to walk about. I have not yet been actively sick! Yesterday we got up early to see Stromboli. It is a double headed cone, perhaps 1300 ft. high, rising without any trimmings, out of the water no islands near it. The opening between the two heads was filled with steam or smoke, and three times we saw long tongues of flame shoot up from the crater. On the other side the rock looked like one solid cone and there was no sign of vapour or smoke. So our approach was very fortunate.
The next excitement was passing thru the Straits of Massina, about 5 miles. On both sides there was a background of hills, looking barren & compromising but there were tiny villages every where. On the Sicily side, there were sizable towns with fortifications at the entrance and exit, with Messina scattered along in between. We saw the ferry that carries the trains, making its way across the strait. Exciting day! And it ended in as severe a thunder shower as I ever saw, with a sea that sent me to bed again. This morning, for the first time, the weather is mild enough to suggest, as Mrs. Shaw said after breakfast, discarding our woollens.
The ship is very crowded, more than a hundred getting on at Marseilles, but our deck chairs are well placed so we have no cause for complaint. And many disembark at Port Sudan. Sports are being organized systematically and the young are occupied thereby. I enjoy Miss Clark increasingly. She lives in White Plains knows Mrs. Gilpatric, her sister's husband, Vining, is pastor of Mrs. G-'s church, I think. She knows all the Amer. Board people, but you'd never think of her as a missionary, in the old fashioned sense. She is really a charming girl. I am most fortunate. Miss Butcher is an English girl, of fine type, about Miss C-'s age. She is going Travancove to visit the girl who was engaged to her brother killed in the war, since married to a missionary in T-. "I don't want her to think I did not understand her marrying." Being now released from the care of aged parents, she is makig this trip. Lovely girl.
Wed. after breakfast. Nov 11 is Poppy Day when every body buys a poppy to help the soldiers. To catch the people before they begin to disembark, we are having Poppy Day today and I am dutifully wearing my Poppy. It is a pleasant day, warmer than yesterday. People are going about in thin clothes. We land in Port Said early tomorrow and this will carry back my love to you all. Thank Gertrude for her letter. I shall answer it anon. Love and love to my dear friends,