Dear Honey: -
We've been travelling so fast that there hasn't been time to write at all. I sent you a post-card from somewhere, I forget where, around Trondhjem. I think I mailed the last letter there on landing.
Our activities in Trondhjem were varied. Anne drew running water, so we promptly washed as much as we dared! It hasn't been really clear since the day we got to Abisko, so we couldn't wash at a one day stand anything like the heavy stockings from the Arctic! I may say I hate to wash! It mars my pleasure in the occasion.
The cathedral was lovely, and we saw most of it - at least I did. Anne had to get a watch ribbon fixed, but she might not have liked the tower and triforium climbing anyhow. The views over the town were very charming and I do so enjoy seeing how the cathedrals are made. Of course this seemed very small in comparison with English ones, but the blue soapstone it's made of is very satisfying and the proportions likewise. They were making ready for a wedding or a feast-day with many flowers at the altar rail and all stewn over a white cloth on the chansel floor - very pretty.
We went to the museum and saw some northern things - birds, animals, relics &c, and a little stavekirke put up in the back yard, dating from the 14th cent. if I understood the gentleman aright. We conversed in German and Norwegian!
The stores were quite fascinating and I bought Hazeltene's wedding present, an old design by the expensive Møller man of a "marriage spoon." They used to have two, hitched together by a chain, and eat with 'em, but I could afford only one. It's big enough for a little serving sppon, and it does have an elegant air. His store was entirely in a class by itself - sort of a Tiffany design idea, and the man was delightful. Of course one paid something for that - but I'd rather do it! I may get her a little tin dish too, for the tin in Stockholm is most alluring.
Along toward evening I took a suburban trolley out to Gula, no, Ugla - same letters - and had such lovely views of the city, fjord, &c. It had cleared off temporarily.
Next day we started at 7:05 up the Doore Mt. railway to Dombås. It's a thrilling ride, up and up into the really wild and desolate fjelds, with snow mountains coming in gradually and with such wide spaces. Then we dropped fast to Dombås where we had about 4 hours for dinner and a walk. The little cottages in Sweden were so different - mostly red in Dalarue, with bright tile roofs. These are grey and turfed - and much less ship-shape. There are, of course, newer houses in both places, with lighter wood and slated roofs and more size. They use the same style in each country for all the out-houses and storage houses of assorted sizes.
The views from Dombås were beautiful - it's high and the broad valleys stretched away, with many mountains. In the walk into the woods we found Linnea everywhere, and that lovely one-flowered Pyrola which is so rare at home, also the ling just beginning to flower, and several more little things, one perhaps a heather with large lavender flowers.
From Dombås we went down through the Romsdal valley by a new R.R. (1921 I believe) and it is certainly the most wonderful thing I ever beheld. The valley gets so narrow and so wild. At one place the train dives into the mt. and comes out going the other way at at [sic] lower level, then across the river which is here a torrent with a huge waterfall coming in down the mountain.
At [the dotted lines in the image above] there had been a big landslide which tore up huge trees. The train proceeded most cautiously, for 'twas a fresh thing just newly repaired. There was the roof of at least one house still sprawled on the little flood-plain by the river. 'Twas quite exciting and made one realize the possibilities of the region! The Romdalshorn and Troldtinderne are the biggest and finest peaks and though they were clouded part of the time we got their outlines at others - most impressive. It was a Tyrol bunched together - narrow valley, quite as wild outlines, not as high, but high enough, not with the same glowing color, but with the stunning fjord coming in blue-green in the twilight. We got to Molde at midnight via steamer across the fjord - a very long day, but a wonderful one.
We had a most gorgeous view from our room, (with balcony) at Molde. The Bennett stuff is good and so far it has worked perfectly. We had an hour in the morning and saw the Axel Ender picture in that nice wooden church. I like the Norwegian and Swedish use of wood. They don't think it has to be covered up by either paint or whitewash - especially the Norwegians. We ran around rather wildly in the little shops, but got our boat at 10:30. The nice Germans we met first on the Narvik boat we lost here - really very nice gentle folks. We got quite well acquainted considering the lack of language! From Steltin they were, and his enunciation was the prettiest I ever heard. The roses in Molde were as advertised - everywhere!
The boat across to Vestnes was only an hour or so, and charming, and then we had a motor drive about as long, up to a wild moor and down to Sjöbolt on the outer end of the big fjord from which the Geiranger opens. Lunch at a funny little hotel in a funny little village where the fish was stacked somewhat as in Cape Breton only more covered and roofed. The Norwegians hang their grass on wire racks or ropes stretched along things like fences - apparently because it can't dry on the ground. The Swedish stacks are much thicker - in the dryer country - and supported by poles. I hope these things will come out in some of the snap-shots, but the light has been wretched.
The boat up the Geiranger was great. I surely never pictured the thing as so high, nor did I ever see in pictures the absolutely impossible shelves where some of the people live. The captain told us of an old man and woman up on one tiny terrace who were having to leave because their children had gone away. I asked him how they ever got a cow up to another - "Take them up when they're little enough to go in a bag," said he. Nor had I ever heard of the little goats that frisk over the vertical slopes! The Seven Sisters fall was exquisite with the wind blowing the spray. The location of Merok is amazing - right in dashing waterfalls - and the hotel most energetic.
I wish I could describe adequately the look of a breakfast or supper lay-out. The outline is different from Sweden, and I don't know the order in which I ought to eat, nor how much one does eat, but some things are served, and for others one approaches a huge table on which there are cold meats of several kinds, a few slices of ham at the end of a large leg, all present, but nicely garnished. There are queer fish omelettes, cold, jellied things, pickled things, salad, beets, jams and last night strawberries & rice together. The berries haven't been ripe further north! But it is a rare sight.
We fell in with an American at Merok and he (John Fries of Phil.) and his wife journeyed along with us this morning as we came back over the Geiranger route to Hellesylt. There we took a motor and landed here at Olden at 2:30, a delightful ride. We've had a nice walk of about 5 miles up the valley and back - wonderful views of snowtopped mountains and little glaciers - I can't get any thrill out of them yet - lots of waterfalls of all sizes, a green-blue lake - much hay on racks - many little horses and carts, for autos are forbidden, lots of bicycles (they seem to ride up mts. easily on these) altogether the most thrifty spot we've seen.
The flowers fascinate me, of course, and I wish I had time to look at them, but as it is - I look - and pick - and pass on.
Tomorrow we go on only a half day to Sandane. It may be another chance to get a country walk.
There are so many little things I'd like to tell you, but I've been spending time talking with Miss Hopkinson of Cambridge, who goes to Stockholm to meet an M.D. nephew going to the Congress. Very Bostonian! But interesting. Her nephew is in the Boston City Hosp. group which includes some men I know - Dr. Tremont-Smith. This meeting of folks by the way is amusing, but so far we have avoided the hoards. They were to be in Merok today - the Corinthia, 20,000 ton Cunarder, was anchored at the end of the tiny fjord, also the Irena with some of our "Stockholm" friends on board - we met two - and two other boats, all this morning. Quite exciting[.]
But I'm due to have a bath in a real tub. The water is being heated!!
Much love, honey - and my best greetings to "your party." I wonder where you'll be when this finds you.
It seems queer to have so little mail - just your letter of June 24 at Trondhjem and two or three at Stockholm. Anne has had so many more - but maybe nobody writes to me. We shall have mail again at Bergen.
Love -
Abby