"Stockholm" June 22, 1926
No matter what happens later we have had four matchless days, days of clean-cut straight horizons, of sunny blue water, of clear air and smooth sailing. The boat is wondrously clean, it appears that Swedes scrub all the time. Also there is space enough so that one does not feel crowded, though we could use a little wardrobe in our stateroom and free the couch for purposes of sitting and reclining. It is now a storage warehouse, Anne's at one end, mine at the other. The boat is thoroughly Swedish. I doubt if there are 25 unhyphenated Americans on it, but by the same token it is free from the ever-present "tourist" in the summer sense. These are Swedish-Americans returning home for summer vacation, for the most part friendly, simple folks, unpretentious but prosperous. The "tourist-third" has a methodist deaconess and we rejoice she is no nearer for always that part of the boat echoes of psalm-singing!
The New York day was both pleasant in the seeing of a few folks and profitable in getting tickets and a few other things. Saturday I went early to the boat where Marie Merdinger, Mabel Hedge and Miriam Clarke visited me though none stayed until the sailing time which was very cheerful with the orchestra playing the Star-Spangled Banner and then the Swedish National air. There was confetti to bind the boat to the wharf and altogether 'twas a festive crowd.
We made a big circle south of Long Island and around Cape Cod, more than three miles out, as testified by the potions folks drank. We came in sight of the dunes below Provincetown about 1 o'clock and landed at Boston about 3. Charlotte and Caroline Holt were at the wharf and came on board. Mrs. Kelly approved of Caroline's bringing me brownies, because I'd "be liking to see our own things to eat." There was a great crowd, again very cheerful. Many came to see Annie off.
We have candy and nuts and fruit, the last a lovely basket from Peg and Mabel Hedge, very welcome. I'll inclose a menu card, which affords instruction in Swedish. The food is very different from our own, but good. I fear I'll not lose those eight pounds. Breakfast is fairly ordinary, though a table steward who speaks us English is somewhat of a problem when one wishes toast, we call it "rostet Bröd", I find.
Lunch is the triumph. We begin with hors d'oeuvres ad lib. There may be four kinds of salted and smoked fish things, small pieces in little cans, a regular delicatessen shop. The things are good, very salty and smoky. Some seem quite raw, others cooked - I eat 'em all! There are fish pastes also, and at least three or four kinds of very thinly sliced meats. Also radishes, &c, Also about two hot hors d'oeuvres, perchance an omelet with little sausages therein, or some kidney pie effect. I forgot the cold liver pudding and the hog's head cheese style. There are with this variety three kinds of bread, small white slices, square "Swedish" of the rough variety like hay, and little rye oblongs, the last the best. Often two kinds of cheese, too, and all the butter is fresh and very good.
There are 6 Swedish-Americans at the table with us, all of whom offer instruction in languages, customs and manners. They are kindly folks, one a Bridgeport teacher who knows Evelyn Davis well. Three are rather crude, but well-meaning and friendly. They drink a lot of beer and also wine or stronger at lunch and dinner, and always begin the latter by lifting their glasses to each others' health saying "Skål" - rather pleasant forms.
The pleasantest thing on the voyage thus far is meeting the woman who is next me on deck, Miss af Klintberg, who has been to the U.S. to see our social service work. She is from the Stockholm Social service school, and is evidently a persn [sic] who knows the correct folks. She sits at the Captain's table, only three removed from that august person (who looks very competent and sturdy). She is one whom Mary Collert hoped I might meet, and she is a dear, about 60-65 for a guess, and spritely and keen of wit. She tells me so many useful things! I foresee that we shall be so much better "prepared" for Sweden than for Norway that we shall get much more from our stay there. Already I know a lot of things which will mean that we see more. This going on a "national" line has advantages which I had not foreseen.
Oh - the food was left incomplete! After those elaborate hors d'oeuvres lunch follows, two courses, good. Dinner is much as usual anywhere. Bouillon, coffee after lunch and dinner, 4 o'clock tea and 9 o'clock tea are served on deck in this heavenly weather, or in the cabin if more suitable and folks just crowd around the serving table. Nice graham crackers go with bouillon, pastries with tea. There is too much to eat! We ought to play shuffle board, but there are too many of the same desire.
A Mr. & Mrs. Cameron from Albany know all the Mt. H- people there.
Baths as usual - hot and cold salt water.
"Midsummer eve" appears to be an important festival. Those who can sail so as to be home there. National dances and many customs. It comes tomorrow night and already girls have begun to make wreaths, &c. I hope the good weather will continue.
[Handwriting becomes considerably more sloppy.]
June 26
We've been on board a week, and I may say that the North Atlantic has been gray and chilly yesterday and today. It looks as one imagines a northern ocean should. There is much more jiggle in the writing room than on deck, but it's too cold out there to write comfortably. I have a nasty little cold, and for once don't know where I got it, but I guess it will not last long. Yesterday I was all hot and cold and headachey, but today am much more lively. There's a good deal of roll to the boat but I don't seem to be seasick, though I prefer it calmer. We are thankful for all our warm clothes - I think I shall keep them all until after our northern trip.
We continue to find out more about our fellow passengers. We have a Russian ex-countess, young and charming, a Swedish count, young, huge, loose-jointed and "fast". He rooms near us and one night had what might be called a drunken brawl, though it also might have lasted longer. He is rather winning by spells, but how he roars. I'm reading Gösta Berling and he (the Count) tends to make the characters seem more probable. There is also a German ex-count who surely looks the part. Also a son of an Amer. ambassador to Sweden, and a Finnish runner of Olympic fame. Our table companions drink more and more spirituous liquors, but except for the count nobody seems to get drunk. I've partaken mildly of "Pilsener" myself, but with little interest in it.
[Handwriting back to normal]
June 27
It's a week since we set sail from Boston and it's been a good voyage. We're supposed to pass a rocky islet way off Ireland tonight, the first outpost of Europe - name as yet unmastered by me. The Swedish pronunciation begins to sound more natural to me - I know a few words and am beginning to guess at meanings instead of hearing just a hash of strange sounds. The service this morning was Swedish in "psalm" tunes - (sound the "l") and English in sermon. We've Lutheran and and rather severe of a Sunday morning, but we have a hobbyhorse variety of gambling of a Sunday afternoon! The Swedes are a merry folk we think. I've just finished "Gösta Berling's Saga" by Selma Lägerlöf and if you haven't read it, do. Of course it has particular interest when we're on the way there, but it has been one of those books which I've hated to finish, it was such a delight. Sometimes I think I get more fun out of a really good book because I read so few books. There was a Norwegian one I wanted but couldn't find in New York the day before I sailed.
Monday, June 28
Our way in Copenhagen has been smoothed by "Mrs. Martin" who designs millinery for Abercrombie and Fitch and in G&oumml;teborg and Stockholm by delightful Miss Klintberg, whose picture I hope to get, though she is such a gentle lady that I hesitate to ask her to let me do it. Still I recall the sweetness with which Prof. Bower sat for Mr. Kinney and me and I may venture. The count had another revel last night and Anne has been lodging complaints this morning, which she thought were received as familiar words by the head-steward. The count is surely a young reprobate if I ever saw one.
There are 7 ministers on board, which superstition says will sink a ship, but we sail on, very steadily. Today we have been seeing what may be the Outer Hebrides - indeed I feel fairly sure of it. We were not near. Scotland and the Orkneys late this afternoon we're told. It will surely be well on in Wednesday when we land, 11 rather than 10 days. But I think it will not bother our elastic itinerary.
The ship's newspaper has come out every other day and I judge you are having cool weather. Did I say that I had a radiogram, "Congratulations, Benedicts," so I suppose I got my degree.
'Twas nice of him to send it. I'll put it in so you can see the style of it, also a lunch menu card. Those fish delicatessen little cans still fascinate me, but I have come to discriminate among them!
Last night I read the Perennial Bachelor and the contrast between that and Gösta Berling nearly made me weep. But I wish I had the Norway one I couldn't find in New York. I'd like a Danish one, too.
Probably this will have to chase you on your journey, perhaps to Quebec. I hope you'll have a fine time. I'd like so much to see the Saguenay. Someone says the Chateau Frontenac is all rebuilt - if so, I hope you'll lunch in the lovely dining room, and see the view over the river. That view I remember very well, also the view of the huge bridge as we went under it on the trip down the river. So far I haven't found a soul on this boat who has any interest in Botany but I'm still hopeful. I wish Anne liked it as well as Charlotte did, for we had such happy times looking at the English and Scotch flowers. More Outer Hebrides have come into sight.
June 29
We land early tomorrow we are told. All yesterday afternoon we went along in sight of Lewis and at dinner time and after went north of Scotland. The hills and mountains were most picturesque. At 10:30 we came through the narrowest part of Pentland Firth, between the Orkneys and Scotland, with enough light to see the outlines of the shore, even though it was raining slightly and the lighthouses were lighted. There were evidently strong currents in the water and at one time 6 lighthouses in sight. The captain stayed on the bridge and cut the dinner, which was the most glorified show I ever saw.
The dining room was pretty with colored lights and streamers and the peonies have remained fresh - some on every table. All the time we have had U.S. & Swedish flags alternating on the tables, on heavy silver standards. The dinner was elaborate and there was much wine. Friendly Mr. Erikson wished us all to have several glasses - for the style of it! I'm getting the flavors of these beverages ans years advance, but I never sampled four before in one meal! Pilsener - then Burgundy, champagne and Port. These folks haven't the idea of getting drunk, just of festivity. The Count and his crowd are the only brawlers. Anne complained of them yesterday - and has had really very nice interviews with some of the officers. Somebody escorted the Count home very quietly last night, a great achievement, for he just naturally bellows even when not drunk. He's playing hard with an American girl in the room next us - she came and apologized very sweetly for her part of the noise. They aren't all bad, but they're young and very speedy.
Well, that dinner. The dessert came with all the dining room lights out, with each dessert in an ice castle or swan or something, illuminated from below by colored lights, with an extra steward bearing a charming Japanese lantern on a pole to light the serving of each dish. The orchestra, always very good, played Jap. music. 'Twas really lovely. There were speeches several of them. The Commander Unger of the Swedish Navy who has been over with the Crown Prince took the Captain's place and 'tis said he made a fine speech! 'Twas a blend of Swedish and English in the speeches. There were the national airs played and sun, and "Rudie", one Mr. Svensk, brother-in-law of Mr. Erikson, sang a song - with a great roar and some music. Really I have a distinct impression of Sweden at play - very pleasant, too. Then after dinner the prizes for the afternoon games were awarded, sack races, potato races &c, and they were sweet little silver cups &c, lots of them. Oh, there's a sense of cheer and spontaneity which is very pleasant. We like the Swedish-American Line.
We're now crossing that North Sea you've spoken so severely of, and 'tis as mild as a lamb, with just a gentle roll to the boat. The morning was blue and brilliant, though 'tis grayer now, but we must be well along across to the south of Norway. "They say" it's the calmest voyage in 5 years. Last night brought the first rain, of no consequence. There has been little sea-sickness around. My cold is all but gone though I added a bit to the croak last night in watching the lighthouses. Of course we dressed up for the dinner.
We haven't been over the boat and I should have liked to go, but there is always so much to do! Every day Miss af Klintberg gives me some more information - today about a charming and little frequented route by which we shall probably leave Stockholm the second time. She really is the very nicest person on the boat and it was just plain luck that got my chair by hers. We took each other's pictures yesterday and I hope this will be as lucky as the ones of Dr. Bower. She's very different in setting, but there is the same sweet graciousness about them both.
My trunk has to be packed this afternoon. We are going to have our trunks in Stockholm both times we are there so as to travel more lightly between times. Ann and I seem to think as one on this point, though I'm sure now as earlier that she will like to stay at places which I can ill afford. She's used to good hotels, and she likes comfort. However, she's a good companion and I'm glad she came. I'd better pay, say $100.00 more on the trip than to do it alone.
Lunch time, honey - and our last day at this particular combination of hors d'oeuvres though I'm told they have even more in Copenhagen! Really the assortment of things people tell me is extraordinary!
Much love, honey - and I think this is the last instalment [sic] before Göteborg.