Copenhagen, December 20I should like to try to tell you about Christmas preparations in Denmark - for there are many little characteristic things just now. In the first place it began early - many of the shops had their decorations in place by the first of December but it keeps on getting more so all the time.
If we should start from the Laboratory and walk in town we should find right here by our little Park a whole forest of Christmas trees. They are almost all spruce, though there is an occasional fir and I have seen just a few pines. The men all have the material to make standards and as fast as they sell trees they put more on their bases. For these little forests are all over the city- at every open place, ad where there are not open places just along the edge of the sidewalk. Beside the trees there are big bunchesof [sic] branches tied up and in some places also holly and mistletoe and greens with artificial red flowers. You just have no idea how much tere is - it seems to me there must be a tree for every inhabitant! Yet they say that there is usually only one tree for a family. There are little trees, too, some in pots, but more on standards, just the size we want for our tables and never can get. These are protected at night, all these stocks, just by running a little rope around them! They are on sale now all through the ordinary evening - of course it is dark by 3:30 - as well as in the daytime.
We go through several streets of little shops. Suppose a man sells tobacco - he has his window full of the usual things - but little sprigs of holly, gay little Santa Clauses anywhere from an inch high to two feet, "Julegaver" in gay letters, so many things are among his stock. The American windows will seem strange to me when I see them again, I am so used now to seeing at least samples of everything the shop contains in the window, and sometimes at least half the entire stock is there. And somany [sic] little shops now have lots of toys, added at Christmas - I do not see who is going to buy them! For ordinaruly [sic] there are more toyshops than any city ought to have. Now they are just running riot. I feel defrauded that I never had a regiment of toy soldiers or the population of a whole village - those fascinate me more than the mechanical things which are much like ours. There are lots of dolls houses and such like, things for the dolls to do - especially things for them to eat! All the things the Danish menu affords, meats, cakes, Smorbrod, lobsters, cheese, everything is in tiny portions on little plates and such cunning fruit in little baskets! Those little models are almost as good as the scientific models! The perfumery and soap shops have the candles - and you never saw the like. They are in so many shapes, especially three branched candles, just one little candlestick needed for the whole thing, red or white. There are little monuments with "Caledelig Jul" on them and pictures of two little birds - I must find out why those birds are everywhere! There are bright red candlesticks lots of them, plain wood painted, the tiny chubby ones like my little ones with three little balls for legs, three-branched ones always with a spray of fir painted on the red, tall ones like a vertical row of balls, oh, many kinds, but so many wooden ones. Occasionally one sees little glass things to prevent the wax from running down but mostly there is every preparation for fire! I know, because I have set my little red candlesticks on fire in South Hadley more than once! And the trees are to have candles on them - holders are everywhere, though there are also some little electric lights. There are sheaves of grain on many Xmas cards, tiny real ones on place-cards, big ones on the streets with the flowers. I'm sure there is a story behind these. Yes - they put them out for the birds in trees & on poles - in Parks and by houses.
The marzipan deserves a separate paragraph. It has been obtainable bt not at all conspicuous in the confectioners windows all the fall - but now, the people just line up in front of the windows and enjoy the things - I suppose they also buy. There is every fruit and vegetable you ever thought of - far easier to get marzipan vegetables than real ones. And there is a specialty: pigs, all sizes, I've seen them as small as an inch and as big as three feet long. Mostly white with brown spots and blue or red ribbons around their necks. The confectioners have whole scenes done in marzipan, chocolate, sugar, cakes; one window has lots of little brown monkeys sporting around, and there is always a crowd in front of it. At another place there are the cunningest children - and so on. There are special cakes, too, gingerbread dolls, with hard frosting much like the German ones, and some of the other cakes with almonds on them make me think of the Germans, too. But in general the things are more different than I had expected. There is not a Crêche in any window, nor an angel, nor a Mary nor a Christ child as far as I have seen.
There are very special stocks for "Julegaver", very attractive, just the ususal things only gayer in decoration and so on. I have not seen that they are inferior in quality - but of course they may be. "They say" there will be grand sales after Christmas!
The main shopping street is like a great tent. About every hundred feet or even less [added in the margin: "It's 75 - I paced it!"] there is a festoon of lights over the street - which is narrow - with a star at the top. This goes for perhaps a quarter of a mile. The windows are so full of lights, always abundant, now more, these festoons are so bright that it seems like indoors - only the rain comes down! Many of the strees [sic] also have festoons of lights along them, always twined with evergreen as are the street festoons - but it is all for after dark effect, not for day! The biggest shop has 21 Christmas trees over its long stretch of windows and they are set with just hundreds and hundreds of little lights. They use those with filaments in star shape inside and it gives the cunningest little stars you ever saw. Of course a big tree similarly lighted in the City Hall Square.
Two of the porcelain factories get out a special xmas plate every year, this year one is a water thing, one a view of the Square with the tree - and I'm tempted to buy it. Two of the newspapers get up Christmas concerts, but, alas, I did not get on to the fact that one ought to go to these, though I saw them advertised, and so missed them. But there will be music on the night before Christmas in all the churches and everybody is said to go at that time if never before in the year. I do not think of the Danes as at all devout - they are practical - at least I haven't met the mystic variety yet. I think I wrote about Confirmation, which seemed gay and practical rather than religious. Some of the folks resent the part of the state tax whcih goes for the support of the Church.
I've just been through The Street again - and I must mention one of the big department stores where I went for candles for my little tree. (They will not be on the tree!) There is a fine central place like Wanamaker's in New York and now in this there is a huge tree, with just cascades of that thread-like silver stuff we use. Of course also many lights. Around the space on the level of what we would call the second storey [sic] are things like smalls tage sets, of the man towers in Copenhagen. And all up and down tall orange lights going from storey to storey up maybe three or four. These are nothing but parchment cases around rows of lights - I looked at them to see! Overhead are lots of orange stars and hanging through all the aisles of the store are huge orange stars. It is most effective. Oh, yes, a few more small trees suitably disposed at aisle junctions. The store reminds me of Jordan Marsh's in Boston - about that kind.
And we certainly never would lay out silver in our big shops with a few tiny sprigs of spruce alternating with spoons or knives! That is here ever and over again, in even the very best windows - and pretty, too. Perhaps one reason it is so successful is the ever-present dampness!
I've been to a movie tonight, "Tembi", the Aftican [sic] one with all the animals. A nice little old lady sat beside me and talked to me gently all the time even though I told her I understood no Danish! She kept right on - and of course I do get a little. There was a lecture with the picture, no titles, but one can tell a lion from an elephant without a title. It was maddening however to get just the least flicker of perfectly good English titles which had been almost entirely cut out!
December 28, 1930
And now I must try to tell you something about Christmas as it has been in Denmark. First - it is more of an event than it is with us. Everything in the way of business stops along in the middle of Dec. 24 and does not start again until Dec. 27. There is Christmas Eve (the whole day is meant), first Christmas Day and Secon Christmas Day.
On Christmas Eve everybody seems to go to church late in the afternoon - Dr. Landis and I went to the biggest church, Vor Frue Kirke, and the service was most simple, just carols by the whole congregation, everybody knew them, and all the young men sang with abandon, as well as the old spinsters and such. There was more or less of a formal service, probably out of their prayer-book with the choir singing some old well-known music - it was all in a book I found later. We left early - had to have the door unlocked to let us out - to go to the Kroghs for dinner at 5:30. The church had been packed - all the standing room full in all the galleries. At the Kroghs we were the only guests - it was just a family party and they did their usual things - which was the nicest thing which could have happened to us. At dinner we began with a rice-porridge. You eat it with butter, a big piece in the middle, and with cinnamon and sugar. The point is that there is one blanched almond somewhere in it and the person who gets it has a prize! It was Agnes, next to the youngest who got it. Then we had roast goose, usually carved in the kitchen but at Xmas on the table, by mother, not father. That seems to be customary in both Germany and Denmark, to have mother do all the serving not done by the maid. The goose was lovely and brown but had no stuffing - apples and prunes came rolling out whole! Then we had another goose! There were eight of us and they were not large birds - also two maids int he ktichen. Then we had apple-cake - and I hope to know how that is made before I go home - it does not mean at all the right thing as you read it. Then father went to light the tree, in the reception hall. We waited in the totally dark library for him to open the door. It was a lovely tree, with so many real candles on it, and sparklers which they think safe. No presents on the tree, all beneath it and on tables. There were just hundreds of Julenisse, which also had been our favors, with Danish and American flags. These Julenisse are Christmas trolls, with red peaked caps, made of yarn, red and white. I had seen lots of them, but thought them rather insignificant little Santa Clauses - not at all, they are the thing. They had little sleds and such like all over the tree, they climbed the top - oh, they were fun to hunt out. There were also lots of little white mice running over the tree - but I think that is a family matter! Mrs. Krogh said she had a whole bag full made one year - and they have grown gradually less, but there are many now. The presents they gave very simply, but before that there was a circle around the tree, maids and all, with the singing of an old carol to the tree by one of the maids - the Kroghs are not musical! It's a charming old thing - I hope to get it to take home. The presents were many - and a lot of them useful, like kimonos, shoes and such. They knew about the things which had to be fitted - but they were all done up and under the tree. They gave so much to Dr. Landis and me - I have a copy of the Danish Xmas periodical, "Julerose," and a lovely book of Danish pictures of the Country in the region of their summer place, and an Andersen candlestick and bonbon dish as well as a basket of eats. After the tree there was coffee and then everybody just sat around and read the new books - lots of joke-books - and tried on the new clothes and it was all quiet and nice. We went up the stairs to look at the tree from the landing, quite lovely, we burned things in the fireplace - they have the only one I've seen in Demark - and I ventured to bring out my German Burning Hearts[.] In Freiburg at birthdays and such times you give a person you like a candle in the shape of a heart. I bought two for the Professor and his wife down there, but the dinner my last night was too formal - they were not appropriate - so they came out here - and I think Professor Krogh liked it. He has a very whimsical side. And Mrs. Krogh is so friendly. I begin to feel a little acquainted with them.
Oh, I left out the beginning. The 23rd, the last work day, Miss Hagfeldt, who is the tried and true person about Professor Henriques' laboratory, had the little dining room we use all decorated with Christmas papers and green and everybody said Merry Christmas - Glaedelig Jul. There are five of us who eat breakfast there, and the next morning Miss Hagfeldt had us all in her room - with a grand tree, and much to eat and so on. It was very festive and pretty. Candles everywhere - day was just breaking at nine o'clock so candles were useful. The morning of Xmas day I went around to snatch a hasty bite before starting for the country and there she was - she had already fed one man - she fed me - she was waiting for Dr. Landis. Now wasn't that friendly? It was simeple, but yet it was so cordial.
I went out that morning of Christmas Eve to buy some flowers for Mrs. Krogh and this Miss Hagfeldt and I assure you Copenhagen was one mad ruch [sic] of flower-buyers! The place I had thought would be easy was just packed with men - no chance. I tried two or three more but there was not what I wanted so I caught a swift taxi and went to a place where there were three shops - and got something pretty in the last one - and a taxi to bring me home. But you just can't buy early! Even these did not last well for the country next day. Everybody was so excited - you could just feel it.
Well, there was a train so full the morning of First Christmas Day that the guards went up and down trying to find seats - no standing allowed. At Hôlbaek the whole family met me at the train - the same place where I spent a Subday [sic] in November, friends of Miss Blood's who are nice to her friend. Father, mother six-year old, two year old. They had a tree the night before and Santa Claus came and asked if they had been good girls! But they saved some gifts to open in the morning after I came and it was fun to see the children. They had had rice-porridge, too, the night before, and had been to church. We had just a nice time all day. Next day we went for lunch to an "old-fashioned family" with old Danish glass and furniture - I wanted to look it all over. Lots of old prints on the walls and a book which reproduces all the best prints - I want to buy one old one before I leave. There is a boy about twelve who has just begun English in school and his mother told me he had asked her English words so he could talk with me! He has a hobby - cutting out pictures of automobiles all of which he knows by name - so it was easy to meet that part of the program. We had just lots to eat - also drink. The glasses for snaps were some of the old ones. I have not advanced upon snaps yet - though I can do wine enough to drink the toasts, and beer with some equanimity. But there are so many kinds of beer - oh there is a special Xmas drink which we had at the Kroghs with no alcohol, but dark and queer. After lunch at the Hôlbaek place we went in the parlor to have more little cakes and confections as we talked. Both Mr. Petersen and this host have library-like places - Professor Krogh has, too - just off the reception hall. They have big tables, and things which suggest their business as well as cultural books in them. Not quite like our "dens" - more library-like, yet distinctly men's rooms.
That night the little six-year-old got quite sick and I wanted to leave early in the morning but a party had been planned for a long time involving the University Professor of Comparative Anatomy and his wife who were to come, not for one meal, but for both lunch and dinner and the Petersens did not wish to put it off - so I tried to be helpful! That is difficult when the two-year old does not speak English! She has a wild temper and you know I'm as afraid of children as of dogs - until I know them. But mother wanted the child to go to ride - so I took her - and you should have heard us converse. She talked her really nice little Danish of which I understood most nothing - I talked my few words of Danish plus much gentle English - and most any child is good in a go-cart - so we got on. She was completely puzzled when the stones did not go into the pond but ran along on the ice. One of her games is to see the stones splash the water - and this was new - her face was so funny.
The Comparative Anatomy man told me a lot about Danish education. Their Docotr's [sic] degree is much harder to get than ours - their master's nearly as much as our doctor's. The thesis for the doctor's may represent several years of work. It is presented to a committee of three or so - and they make take a year or more to read it and decide whether it is good enough. Then it must be published at the candidate's expense - the one I saw of this Doctor's cost him 14,000 krone - about $3,600. It is a fine book on the detailed anatomy of a groupof [sic] pulmonate snails of small size. Lovely plates. He is now professor, but in some way the University neglected to give him any appropriation for material or help - he had received these from another man while he was a Lector - and he has to provide these now from his salary. He and his wife say they are working about 17 - 18 hours daily on charts and so on. There is a lot of political mix-up in this little country in government and in other matters - and there may be some here - I do not know. The Doctor has a wonderful ring which he wears on his first finger, a very heavy gold affair with a head of Minerva on it. I noticed one on Mrs. Krogh's finger one night - but did not think of it as anything but ornament in what was an oldd place to me. There are not so many doctors, men or women. I hope I can attend a doctor's defense of his thesis sometime during the year - they are public things, and sometimes largely attended. It is more a scientific or historical or literary discussion than an examination. If the thesis is accepted by the committee I do not think it is turned down at the disputation. There are various combinations possible in educaton but all of it seems sound and well-built. Yet the preparation of the teachers who have lower grades seems to me not more than our own - and that has always seemed to me not secure enough. The number of years for most things is not unlike ours in total often, but the students work harder without doubt, longer hours, more days, more weeks. Mrs. Steenberg teaches biology and physiology and hygiene to girls in a Seminarium, like our normal schools. This is a private institution and gives too much time - to her mind - to religion! Professor Steenberg's father is a florist who breeds new things and has between 3,000 and 4,000 kinds of perennials in his garden. I hope they will not forget that they said they would invite me out to see it in the spring! It is in a suburb of the city.
My pile of Christmas letters approaches the size it has at home usually - and there are three cablegrams! Also gifts - all of which is much more exciting over here than at home. The Petersens gave me one of the special Xmas plates made by one of the porcelain factories. There are two every year - and their own dining room has a long series of them on its wall. This one has the Xmas tree in Raadhus Plads - and nothing could be more fitting. I am so glad to have it. One day this next week I am going forth to buy things for myself with Xmas and other money I have to spend - and that will be quite exciting. There are going to be grand sales of all sorts. I have been in town to a late afternoon service today - a few more carols, though not as many as we should have had, and some of the sales are already in the windows though most of them do not begin until after New Year. For the Night before New Year we are invited to Professor Krogh's. Two of the other professors usually provide fireworks in the court here and then everybody goes into the Kroghs'. Down town there is a New York mob in Raddhus Plads and they have had hand fireworks until very recently - but they got too dangerous. The restaurants are full and I guess that is more like our New Year than is Xmas.
The Xmas trees on the streets and the greens were low but not gone, there was only a reasonable remainder! But I see many toys left in the windows! I hope to be able to find a few Julenisse for my tree at home next year - I wish I had bought them beforehand when they were so abundant - I saw none of them tonight as I went along.
But it has all been a most interesting time and I'm glad I did not try to mix my drinks and go out of the country. Germany may have a fine Christmas - but this year I would rather see Denmark's. Speaking of drinks - the Hôlbaek folks teach me slang. Next time Professor Krogh says "Skol" (better "Skaal") I am almost stumped to say "Skal vi saa krumme Albuen?" (["]Shall we thus bend elbows?") It is said to be not bad but a slang response. I'll try it on Erik! He gives me points in etiquette!
[Unsigned, but written by Abby H. Turner]